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American Gem Society (AGS)
American Gem Society (AGS) is an independent laboratory recognized by the jewelry industry as a top authority for grading gemstones. This is the only lab that provides a “cut grade” for diamonds.
Bar Channel Setting
Individual metal bars separate each gemstone. Metal is molded around each gem to lock it in place.
Bezel Setting
A metal rim secures a gemstone in place by the girdle. The bezel setting guards the gemstone from damage, yet does not block light from entering the top of the stone and creating brilliance.
Brilliance
White light reflected up through the surface of a diamond.
Brilliant cut
Any shape with facets that are mostly triangular or kite shaped and radiate from the center towards the girdle.
Carat Weight
Although commonly thought to refer to the actual size of a diamond, a carat is actually a standard unit of measure that defines the weight of a diamond. One carat is equivalent to 200 milligrams. Since it is a unit of measure and not size, two diamonds of the same carat weight may appear to be different sizes depending on how the diamond is cut. Some diamonds will have extra weight on the bottom part of the stone, and therefore appear smaller.
Cast Engraved
Engraving that is done before a ring is made when it is cast from a mold. This type of casting is standardized and uniform; a cast engraved piece will not have the uniqueness and artisanship of a ring that is hand engraved (see also: Hand Engraved).
Center Stone / Solitaire
The center stone is the central, dominant stone in a piece of jewelry set with multiple stones. In a piece set with one stone, the center stone is called a solitaire.
Channel Setting
Ridges in the setting metal that create a channel, holding the gemstones in place.
Certification Type
American Gem Society (AGS) Gemstones are frequently sent to an independent laboratory such as the GIA, AGS, NGL, or AGTA to be graded against a master set of gemstones, according to an industry-wide common set of grading guidelines.
Clarity
Part of what makes every diamond unique are tiny traces of other elements or gasses that may have been trapped inside at the time the diamond was formed. These are called inclusions, “nature's fingerprints,” or “a diamond's birthmarks.” The clarity scale measures the number, size and location of these within each diamond.
Color
Most diamonds appear colorless, but may actually contain very faint traces of yellow or brown. The less color a diamond has, the more rare, valuable and beautiful it is. The color scale describes the degree of color in a diamond, starting with the letter D (completely colorless) and increasing all the way to Z (heavy brown).
Crescent Silhouette
Tacori’s signature design element in the shape of a half-moon crescent silhouette; this unique design is so special, it is trademarked and copyrighted.
Crown
The top part of the gem; the angled edges of a gemstone above the girdle and surrounding the table. Colored light escapes through the crown in the form of fire.
Culet
The culet is the facet at the tip of the bottom (or pavillion) of a diamond. Ideally, the culet is a tiny, understated focal point where the facets of the pavillion meet.
Cut
The quality of the cut determines how well a diamond will reflect and refract light. The better the cut, the more fire, brilliance and scintillation it will have and the more beautiful it will be.
Depth Percentage
The height of a gemstone, measured from the culet to the table, divided by the width of the gemstone. The depth percentage is critical to creating brilliance and fire in a diamond, and a gemstone with a depth percentage too low or too high will have diminished “light performance.”
Engraving
A form of art that beautifies the ring; a design that is etched into a ring by a master craftsman. (see also: Hand Engraved)
Eternity
A design feature where the diamonds go all the way around the band.
Facet
The flat polished surfaces on a gemstone. A round, brilliant-cut diamond has 58 facets.
Filigree
Intricate wirework that is inlaid into the shank of the ring or under the center and side stones. For Tacori rings, this detail often takes the shapes of hearts, circles, infinity symbols, etc.
Finish
The quality of a diamond's polish, the condition of its girdle, and the precision of the cut.
Fire
The colored light reflected from within a diamond through the crown. Fire is maximized by cutting a diamond to the correct proportions.
Fitted Band
Also known as a shadow band or a band that is contoured to the engagement ring. This type of band is designed to fit snugly with the engagement ring and is rarely, if ever, designed to be worn as a stand-alone band.
Fluorescence
Some diamonds may release a bluish color when exposed to ultraviolet light. Subtle fluorescence does not affect the appearance or the value of a diamond, and is not visible under normal light conditions.
Gallery
The space underneath the center stone and the side stones. It is in this space that the diamonds can be viewed, and filigree can be inlaid.
Girdle
The girdle is the thin band around the widest portion of the diamond. This is where jewelry settings are usually attached to the diamond.
Hand Engraved
A form of art that beautifies the ring and is etched by hand into a ring after it is cast by a master craftsman. Each design is different and takes many hours to complete. (see also: Cast Engraved)
Head
The part of a setting that holds the center stone (or solitaire) in place.
Head Size Range
The carat weight range of a gemstone that can be mounted into a setting's head.
Inclusion
The trace minerals, fractures, and other imperfections that make up the unique "fingerprint" of a gemstone. Inclusions are created during the gems' formation in the earth.
Inlay
The process of setting filigree into the gallery or shank of a ring.
Measurements
The first two numbers represent its diameter. Since most diamonds are not perfectly and exactly round, two numbers are used to illustrate the maximum and minimum diameter points, and the next number represents the height or depth of the diamond from its culet to its table.
Milligrain
Small beading design that is hand-applied to the ring.
Mixed cut
A combination of brilliant and step facets. Usually, the step facets are on the crown, and the brilliant facets are on the pavilion, although the reverse could also occur.
Pavilion
The bottom portion of a diamond, extending from the girdle to the culet.
Polish
A term that describes the external finish of a gemstone. The polish scale ranges from poor to excellent.
Prong
Metal that holds a diamond in place.
Prong Setting
When a gemstone is set, each prong is cut to fit the diamond's girdle. The prongs are bent to secure the gem by the crown.
Proportion
A term used to describe how symmetrical the various parts of a diamond are in relation to each other and the rest of the diamond.
Round Brilliant Cut
The most brilliant cut containing 58 facets. The round brilliant cut makes the most efficient use of light to increase brilliance and fire.
Scintillation
Sometimes called "sparkle," scintillation refers to the tiny flashes of light when the diamond, the light source, or the observer moves. It depends on the number, size, and position of the facets. The quality of the polish affects scintillation, too.
Shank
The shank is another word for the band of the ring; the rounded part of the ring that goes around your finger. A basic ring usually has three parts: a head, side stones and a shank.
Side Stones
Side stones are the stones that are on either side of the center stone.
Sizing
When the size of a ring is modified to fit.
Step Cut
A cutting style that features long, narrow facets in rows (usually 3) parallel to the girdle on both the crown and the pavilion. Step Cuts generally show color better.
Straight Band
A band that is straight, not contoured, to the engagement ring. This type of band can be worn with the engagement ring, or as a stand alone piece of jewelry.
Symmetry
Symmetry describes the uniformity of a diamond's cut and the alignment and balance of its facets. Poor symmetry will reduce the diamond's ability to shine with fire and brilliance.
Table
The table is the largest facet of the diamond, located on the top of the gemstone, through which refracted light escapes as brilliance.
Table Percentage
The width of the table divided by the diameter of the diamond gives us the table percentage. The table percentage is critical to creating scintillation in a diamond; a table percentage that is too low or too high will not flash as brilliantly.
Two Tone
When a ring has two different metal colors within the setting. For example, a platinum ring that is naturally white, accented with yellow or rose gold filigree details.
